Ruth Reichl smiles out at me like she has a secret to share, her mane of dark hair practically swallowing her up on the Letter from the Editor page of this month's issue of Gourmet magazine. And sure enough, she writes,
"At this moment, ethical eating may be a mere whisper in our national conversation, but it is getting louder by the day. Wolfgang Puck announced that he will no longer serve factory animals raised in confinement facilities, eggs from battery chickens, or unsustainable seafood . . . Now chefs all over the country must start asking themselves--and their customers--if it is worth the effort and expense to demand that the animals we eat be raised humanely. My guess is that a few years from now, nobody will be asking that question anymore. . ."
The July issue is a cover-to-cover pleasure, as I find most issues of Gourmet, actually. It's a real writer's magazine, filled with evocative descriptions and thoughtful observations, with accompanying photos that envelope me in the time and place so vividly that I swear I can almost smell the dirt.
This particular issue features recipes inspired by the bounty of the farmers market--just in time for those of us participating in the One Local Summer challenge! There's a recipe for caramel peach eclairs that will happen in the Baker kitchen, I can promise you that. There are articles about a farm-to-fork culinary resort that may be in my foodshed, revolutionary ways to grow wheat and slow soil erosion, gobs of interesting recipes, many of which are quick fixes in the kitchen, and my favorite find in the whole magazine--a mention of the Edible Communities family of publications (which includes Edible Atlanta!). Here's what it says:
Click on Local
So you're ready to jump on the eating-local bandwagon. The problem: you have no idea who in your area is producing what. That's where Edible Communities comes in. Through its magazines, website and events, the five-year-old organization is connecting eaters with farmers, winemakers, and markets in locations from Brooklyn to the Iowa River Valley.
The July issue of Gourmet is on newsstands now. Click here for Gourmet.com, where you'll find some interesting online exclusives. My only complaint? Ruth doesn't give an easy way to contact her, like most every other editor-in-chief does nowadays. Don't you want a personal relationship with us, Ruth? We've gotten used to that, you know, by knowing where our food comes from.
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